Most permit confusion about Spiti comes from articles that never say who the rule applies to. So, plainly:
- Indian nationals: no permit, anywhere on the circuit. Including the Shimla–Kinnaur route. Carry a government photo ID for registration checks.
- Foreign nationals: you need a Protected Area Permit for the Kaza–Tabo–Sumdo stretch, because the region borders Tibet.
That is the whole answer. The detail below matters only if you are in the second group, or driving a route with its own separate permits.
The Protected Area Permit, for foreign nationals
Where: SDM offices at Reckong Peo, Kaza or Shimla. Cost: nominal — a small processing fee. Validity: seven days. Turnaround: same day, usually within an hour or two.
Bring: passport, visa copy, two passport photographs, and a completed application form. Some offices ask for a copy of your accommodation booking.
A practical note: apply at Reckong Peo if you are coming up the Kinnaur side, since it is on the way and the office is used to processing these. Doing it in Shimla means carrying the paperwork further; doing it in Kaza means you have already driven through the restricted stretch.
Permits that are not the Spiti permit
These trip people up because they are separate systems on the same road trip.
Rohtang Pass. If you enter Spiti from Manali you cross Rohtang, which has its own online permit and a daily vehicle cap. Book it in advance through the Himachal government portal — turning up without one means turning around. The Atal Tunnel bypasses Rohtang for Lahaul, which changes what you need depending on your exact route.
Chandratal. Camping near the lake is restricted to designated sites away from the shoreline, and access depends on Kunzum La being open.
Foreign nationals near the border. The PAP covers the tourist circuit. It does not authorise travel toward the actual border, and you should not treat it as though it does.
When the permit question is really a road question
Whether you can get to Spiti at all is decided by snow, not paperwork.
The Kunzum La road from Manali opens roughly late May and closes with the first heavy snowfall, usually by mid-October. The Shimla–Kinnaur route stays open most of the year and is the winter access road, though landslides close it periodically in monsoon.
That is why the Shimla approach is the better one for a first visit regardless of season: it is open longer, and it spreads your altitude gain over four days instead of one. Spiti's valley floor is at 3,800 m and passes reach 4,590 m. Coming in fast from Manali is how people end up with acute mountain sickness on day three.
A short checklist
- Indian national? Photo ID, and nothing else.
- Foreign national? PAP at Reckong Peo, Kaza or Shimla — passport, visa copy, two photos.
- Coming via Manali? Rohtang permit, booked online in advance.
- Travelling June–September? Both roads should be open.
- Travelling November–April? Shimla side only, and check conditions the week before.
If an operator cannot tell you which of these apply to your specific nationality and route, find another operator.