The Andamans sit closer to Myanmar than to mainland India, and the reefs around Havelock — officially Swaraj Dweep — are among the best-value diving in Asia.
For a first dive, the conditions are close to ideal: warm water, minimal current at the training sites, and shallow reefs with genuine coral rather than rubble.
When to go
October to May. Best visibility is December to April.
The southwest monsoon from June to September brings rough crossings and ferries are cancelled regularly — which matters more than you would think, because getting to Havelock means a boat.
What a first dive actually is
A Discover Scuba Dive needs no certification. A morning of theory and shallow-water skills, then a guided dive to around 12 m with an instructor. Roughly ₹4,000–6,000.
If you enjoy it, PADI Open Water takes three to four days and certifies you to 18 m worldwide. In the Andamans this typically costs a fraction of Red Sea or Thai equivalents — one of the genuinely good deals in Indian travel.
You do not need to be a strong swimmer for a Discover dive. You do need to be comfortable with your face in water and able to equalise your ears.
What you will see
Hard and soft coral, reef sharks, napoleon wrasse, turtles, and manta in season. Some sites carry bleaching damage — ask an operator directly which sites are healthy this year rather than trusting a brochure photo.
Permits
Indian nationals: none required.
Foreign nationals: a Restricted Area Permit is issued on arrival at Port Blair, valid 30 days and extendable by 15. Citizens of Afghanistan, China and Pakistan, and people of those origins, need prior Ministry of Home Affairs approval.
Beyond diving
Radhanagar beach on Havelock is the one in the photographs and earns it — a long west-facing arc that takes the sunset directly.
Neil Island (Shaheed Dweep) is quieter and good for snorkelling straight off the beach.
Cellular Jail in Port Blair is the other reason people come. The colonial prison held Indian independence activists in solitary confinement and is now a national memorial. It is a heavy visit and worth doing with someone who can give it context rather than reading plaques alone.
Night kayaking through the Havelock mangrove creeks for bioluminescence — only genuinely works around the new moon, so check the lunar calendar before booking.
One thing that is not negotiable
Several tribal reserves, including North Sentinel, are closed to all visitors under Indian law. This is not a formality or a bureaucratic obstacle to be worked around. Approaching them is illegal and has been fatal. Any operator who offers to take you near them is committing a crime and endangering both you and an uncontacted people.
Practical
Book Havelock and Neil ferries well ahead in peak season — they sell out.
Allow a buffer day before any onward flight. Sea conditions cancel crossings, and missing an international connection because a ferry did not run is a common and expensive mistake.